Cubanisimo
Mood:
incredulous
Topic: Latin America
Where or how do I even begin about Cuba? As a child I had more than a fair share of exposure to communism lifestyle, through the colour media of Hong Kong movies, stories from my father who read intently about the political life of Chairman Mao’s political life, and even more tales from my mother the ‘accidental’ communist who literally danced to the tune of communist China. I remember China in those days where they had local currencies and tourist money, and days when mainland Chinese rarely have the opportunity to venture overseas. My communism experience continues in my grown-up travel days, through visits of many ex-communist states such as Russia, the Balkans state and the Czech Republic. I even read a number of books loosely related to socialist Cuba before my visit to this surreal society. But nothing really prepares one for Cuba.
Geographically speaking, Cuba is gorgeous. For its sub-tropical climate, the country boasts a surprisingly varied terrain. On the west of the country, there are the ‘mogotes’, of limestone hills comparable with Guilin in China and Halong bay in Vietnam. The beaches are beautiful, as one would expect of a country in the middle of the Caribbean. The hilly land surrounding Trinidad provides a spectacular backdrop for the sugar mills, one the industries that brought in the influx of Africans and made the Spanish rich. In the ‘winter’ months, the temperature lowers as a result of cold fronts arriving from the north, making the climate far more pleasant than the typically burning hot tropics.
Cuba may be one last true communist state in the world. China is one imperialist in a communist skin. North Korea is really a military/ dictator/ semi-out-of-this-world country. Eastern Europe had all but wave Marxism goodbye. I must show my respect to the leaders of Cuba, giving their people the highest literacy rate in the world, and the most comprehensive healthcare system that looks after each and every Cuban. Nonetheless, looking at some rich fat Cubans with handy-cams and mobile phones fancier than mine, it became apparent to us that in this communist state, everyone is equal, but some are more equal than others.
In terms of skin colour, Cuba is probably the 2nd most diverse country in the world, behind only Brazil due to the absence of native Cuban Indians. We saw a man who has charcoal black skin and hair, but clear grey-blue eyes. The effect was quite stunning.
As far as the tourist industry is concerned, granted they had opened up their country to tourism since the 90s and had been eager to draw big bucks from the despised Imperialists, the service is shite, food is horrible and everyone in the trade tries relentlessly and systematically to rip you off. The farmers and people from the country side are by far the better people – I suppose that is because Marxism, in the first place, was designed with an inclination to the working class and people who work the earth for a living. We visited Havana for the Mojitos and Daiquiris (my conclusion is I’ve had better Mojitos in London), Viñales for the mogotes, Maria La Gorda for the diving and accidentally got eaten alive by the sand flies. Santa Clara for its numerous ChÄ“ shrines, Trinidad for the sugar mills, steam trains and music scene. We reluctantly stayed in Valadero because Cubana screwed up our exiting flight and we had to stay in Cuba for 3 days longer than expect.
There are great musicians, if you look hard and long enough. Unfortunately there are far more lousy musicians who like to provide unsolicited service (i.e. stick their guitars in your face and sing in a half-hearted unprofessional manner) and demand for a big tip later.
And yes, Cuba is like a time capsule. Walking through magnificent old buildings that are also magnificently run-down, it sometimes feels as though that the whole city had been abandoned for decades. Buildings that are refurbished for tourism sits oddly next to one that hadn’t had any paint job done for 4-5 decades. The old American cars emits more than just style but also a prolific amount of nasty fumes. There are rows of buildings in Havana facing the coast, and if that was a ‘normal’ capitalist country the houses would have long be converted to beach front lifestyle houses, if not, cafes and restaurants. Yet they sit there, unloved and falling apart.
At the end of the two weeks there, we were all but cigar + rum + salsa + Che-ed out. Unless one is prepared to venture totally out of the tourist sights, live and sleep with the real Cubans, one will find him/herself trapped in a Disney-fied version of what Cuba ought to be. We enjoyed the stay there. I personally will not choose to go back, though I strongly recommend people to visit before Mr F-C kicks the bucket.
Posted by Ching Yin
at 5:15 PM WST
Updated: Monday, 19 February 2007 5:20 PM WST