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Wednesday, 6 June 2007
40 hours in Slovenia
Mood:  a-ok
Topic: Eastern Europe

Admittedly it was a cheap stint. As a desperate attempt to fit in one extra country into this trip, given that upon my shop opening in August I will probably be chained to Melbourne till the business makes its first profit, I decided to stay one day in Piran, Slovenia (cty no. 59) on my way to Croatia (cty no. 60!!)

Had I understood the bus route correctly, I would have stayed in Slovenia for a total of 25 hours. The first 24 hours had been fabulous. I started my bus trip from Trieste, Italy on a coach 99% full of old ladies. After spending 4 full days in the Milan fair where people can be rude and (understandably so) very weary of us Chinese, these old friendly ladies were a welcoming change. I was sure that most of them didn't know each other but they greeted everyone like they were old mates and chatted animatedly throughout the duration of their journey.

I crossed the Slovenian border around 4pm Monday afternoon. The landscape was gorgeous and very soothing to an ultra tensed mind. Lush green vegetation covering dramatic cliffs overlooking the deep blue Mediterranean sea. I passed through Koper, two other little towns - Potorez (a Slovenian equivalent of the overpriced, overcrowded touristy Nice in France), then arriving at Piran. This adorable little town captured my heart instantly. The town was shaped like the curved fin of a dolphin, a tiny fort situated at the tip. The town centred around a church on a hill with white washed walls towering above the main Piazza, the oval shaped Tartinjev Trg. There was a very quiet, yet warm and friendly atmosphere about the town. I spent most of my time there staring at the ocean, wandering around the cobblestone streets taking pictures and I bought the most expensive packet of salt ever. Apparently Piran was based on 3 'S's. Sailing, Sea and Salt. They had 700 years of experience in refining salt from the sea. The packet that I bought was the "crème de la crème" of salts, the first layer of salt flower that blooms as the water evaporate from the sea water. Sounds very tasty and pretty does it not? It cost me 5.77 for a mere 250g. I tasted a pinch of it after I made the purchase. It tasted… well… salty.

It was around 4.25pm the following day when things went pear shaped. With my 12 kg worth of bags I waited at the bus stop for the bus that 3 different sources (albeit semi-reliable ones) had confirmed existed on a daily basis between Piran and Rovinj, Croatia (where I've booked and paid a deposit for the next 3 nights). When no such bus arrived, I decided to have a chat with the next bus driver I saw, who pointed me to an information board nearby. I was horrified to find out that the 4.25pm bus exists daily only between the 1st June and 15th Oct. Thinking that it may be a good idea to try my luck at Koper (it wasn't), the industrial town 1 hour away given that it had a larger bus terminal and a higher chance, I hopped onto the next bus there, arriving in Koper at 5.30pm. The lady behind the counter without the slightest hint of sympathy, pointed out that there were no more buses to Croatia. She stabbed her finger to a vague direction indicating a hotel that exists near the station.

200 metres and a major highway crossing later, I saw an old beaten up sign point to a motel 500 metres away. I followed the arrow and 500 metres later I saw another beaten up sign for a hotel yet another 500 metres away. It was so much that my bags were by then weighing heavily on my shoulders that was bothering me, but that the signpost was pointing at an unlikely zone of industrial buildings and old houses that looked uninhabited.

Unwilling to make my way back to the bus station I decided to brave my way through the next 500 m, only to find several crumbling "motel" signs, many car manufacturing plants, no reception for any accommodation of any sort, and not a single soul in sight. Yet I trekked around the buildings unrelentlessly until I saw a sign behind what looked like someone's backyard which had a picture of a bed and an arrow directed to a door. Desperate and tired I was capable of trying anything. I hammered away at the door until two maniac looking dogs were about to tear down the door and a bewildered lady emerge from her room.

Fortunately she had a free room, for a bargain of 20. It had a large balcony, kitchen and even satellite TV! I spent about 1 hour channel surfing before collapsing into an intense sleep of 11 hours catching up not only on the fatigue of the day but also from the 4 intensive days in Milan.

I took the first bus to Croatia the following day. The bus ride was nice but I had to retrace my route back to 5 kms from Piran(!). I exited Slovenia at 8am, 40 hours later from entering the country. After 5 long, weary but scenic bus ride, here I am in Rovinj, gorgeous city on the Istria peninsula of Croatia.

If I had to name 3 things I want to remember of Slovenia, it will be the beautiful city of Piran, the lovely Val hostel in Piran and that very expensive packet of salt I bought., As for the bad bits, it is best forgotten =)


Posted by Ching Yin at 9:59 AM JST
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Monday, 19 July 2004
Day 6/32 Riga - Latvia
Topic: Eastern Europe
Riga is more glamorous than Vilnius. I arrived at my hostel later last night and by 11pm I was a hungry grumpy o'bitch prowling the streets for cheap takeaway. Admist my desperate search for food, I did notice a rather lively night scene.

I found the people of Lithuania and Latvia rather impressive so far. Considering that it wasn't very long ago that they had broken away from foreign rule and communism, the people are well-dressed, educated, stylish and very dignified in a European way. It wasn't to say that I was expecting otherwise, but in contrast to the other Eastern European cities I have seen (Prague and Budapest), Vilnius and Riga lacks filth and grime of a over crowded urban region.

And there was a near complete absence of shops selling cheap souvenirs.

Posted by Ching Yin at 9:13 PM JST
Updated: Wednesday, 21 July 2004 6:13 PM JST
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Stupid things I had done so far
Mood:  accident prone
Topic: Eastern Europe
No. 1:
I lost two pairs of expensive sunglasses, and I don't even know how I lost them. The hostel in Warsaw claims not to have seen them, neither had my friend in London. *sigh*

No. 2:
I missed my bus from Vilnius to Klaipeda (both in Lithuania) because I forgot to set my alarm clock one more hour ahead from Polish to Lithuanian time.

No. 3:
I spent 1hr 20 mins in an internet cafe out of the 2 hrs 40 mins I had in Nida and didn't have the time to go on a 1 hour cruise which I assume was to see the sand dunes. That was all that I came to Klaipeda for.

No. 4:
I left my towel at Hotel Ruta yesterday after laundry. I have no towel now.

Posted by Ching Yin at 8:56 PM JST
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Sunday, 18 July 2004
Day 5 (18/7/04), Klaipeda - Lithuania
Mood:  loud
Topic: Eastern Europe
Today is only day 5 and already I am feeling very lonely. While it is rather hard to bear at the beginning, I have a feeling that eventually I will get use to it and be numb to the bone. Each morning I wake up at a different room, and it always takes me a few minutes to remember where I am and why I am doing this.

Actually, I am still wondering about the second question.

Damn you, damn you all!

Vilnius is pretty but also pretty boring. Can't believe it is a capital city! Then again, the entire country has the same population as Singapore, and the entire population of Singapore lives in Singapore city. Now I am in Klaipeda, but see none of the promised beautiful costal sand dunes. Perhaps I am simply not looking hard enough. Tonight I am heading to Latvia, country no.43. Obessesions obessesions!

Posted by Ching Yin at 6:31 PM JST
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Day 2: 15/7/04 Warsaw
Mood:  not sure
Topic: Eastern Europe
My experience with the capital and the country is brief, but I reminded myself that it will be brief too for the many other countries that I will be visiting in the next 4 weeks. Afterall, I am technically speaking, not travelling but embarking on a really long journey home that encompasses a combination of public transport (planes, trains, buses and more trains). These cities I see in between are bonouses of a really long ride back to Singapore.

If there is one thing I should remember about Warsaw... well, I would like to make it two things, really. Sofie, a kind lady I met on the bus who took me to a free but magnificant student concert. Secondly, the strangeness of the architecture of Warsaw - most ancient buildings are destroyed in WWII but the reconstruction are so well done that UNESCO had many listed as World Heritage buildings. The perspection of the actual age of the buildings are strangely distored.

Posted by Ching Yin at 5:52 PM JST
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